A visit to Lusi, the Lapindo hot mud eruption site in Porong, Sidoarjo, East Java.

Three years or a bit over 1000 days later, the Sidoarjo Mudflow is still erupting. While Lapindo Brantas, the government, the courts and NGOs continue to argue over responsibility and compensation, you can help the former residents by visiting the eruption site.

Getting there isn’t difficult. Any bus from Surabaya’s Purabaya/Bungarasih bus terminal to Jember/Bondowoso/Probolinggo/Pasuruan/Banyuwangi/Bali will drive past it, because – ever since the Surabaya-Gempol toll road was submerged – there is only one road, and it goes beside the dam wall. Or, if you are coming from Surabaya, you can take the economy/commuter train (Rp2000) from Kota/Semut or Gubeng station going to Porong and get out at Tanggulangin – the first station after Sidoarjo. Then board any minibus (Rp3000) going in the same direction as the train for the remaining 1-2 km to the mudsite. The total travel time will be about 1 hour. Being bereft of trees, it can get really hot there, so I would recommend the 8:10am train. Check the train schedule at Tanggulangin for when trains return to Surabaya.

Taking the train is cheaper and more comfortable

You will be asked to pay an entry fee (Rp3000). This will give you free range to walk around the dam wall, take photos, etc., but for Rp50 000 you can get a 1-hour ojek (motorcycle taxi) tour that makes it a lot more interesting and “real”.

Our ojek tour group. Muslimah (see below) is on the left.

It’s not just interesting for scientists and engineers. Some of the stops include:

– A viewing tower of the original eruption point and the surrounding area.

Eruption Central

– See some of the former villages, some submerged and others not.

Here the mud was 9m deep, burying everything except the tallest mosque minaret. It felt like something out of “Resident Evil: Apocalypse” or “The Day After Tomorrow”.

– A nearby warung/restaurant that runs its stoves on methane collected from a gas leak.

Gas stoves with a difference

And if you speak some Indonesian, you can talk to your driver a bit about their experiences. My driver, Muslimah, said she has four children. She was forced to relocate about three months after the initial eruption began. She has been to Jakarta four times to protest (taking the Kertajaya economy-class train), and she brought some mud with her. If she met Aburizal Bakrie – current Coordinating Minster for People’s Welfare and de-facto head of the company that was drilling in the area – she wouldn’t say or do something rude (like I would), just politely ask him to pay the compensation as previously agreed.

If you want an extra souvenir, you can also buy a DVD for about Rp30 000. It’s not a documentary, just footage of former villages and Indonesian-style music in the background.

In summary, I was pleasantly surprised with my visit. I was previously worried that it would be depressing or exploitative, but instead it was both interesting and fun, plus it helped the local former residents of the area.

(Please PM me if you want the details of a reliable ojek operator. However, you would need to speak some Indonesian).